Helsinki

Dec 2024

The cover of this post captures the moment I stepped onto the elevator leading to the train from Helsinki Airport. It felt like a perfect introduction to the city—elegant and effortlessly calming.

Coming from the semi-north of China, where snow is such a big part of winter, I’ve always felt it’s a must to travel somewhere snowy when I live in a place that doesn’t have it. Last Christmas, I went to Stockholm, and I couldn’t stop thinking about how the snowflakes under streetlights in the dark afternoons reminded me of Blade Runner 2049. This year, I wanted to keep the snowy vibe alive—and get closer to the author of the book I was reading. That’s how I ended up choosing Helsinki.

Alvar Aalto’s World

The highlight was visiting Alvar Aalto’s House. Somehow, I lucked out and got the entire afternoon time slot to myself. My guide was a kind university student, and the tour felt more like an open-ended chat. We paused wherever I was curious, diving into every detail.

Aalto’s approach to privacy caught me off guard—his house’s street-facing wall is almost bare, giving nothing away to passersby. It’s a subtle but deliberate design choice. Then there were the tiny, intricate touches around the house that at first seemed puzzling but made perfect sense after learning their purpose. He even had a collection of gifts from his designer friends, and it turns out he often returned the gesture by designing interiors for them.

The visit ended with a lovely chat about other Aalto-inspired places to see: his nearby studio, the Academic Bookstore, Finlandia Hall, and even Maison Louis Carré in France. It felt like a masterclass in design wrapped in a cozy afternoon.

Tove Jansson, Moomin and Oodi

Another goal for this trip was diving into the world of Tove Jansson. I started with the Moomin Museum in Tampere, though the bitter cold made walking around the city nearly impossible—I couldn’t keep my hands outside my pockets for more than a moment! (On the bright side, Tampere probably has fewer pickpockets than Rome) The Moomin Museum had a lovely touch—a picture book to guide you through your visit. Although Moomins weren’t part of my childhood, I can’t help but smile every time I see their innocent, welcoming faces.

In Helsinki, I finished reading Jansson’s Fair Play at Oodi, the city’s futuristic library. Oodi completely blew me away. It’s more than just books; there’s a 3D printer, music and gaming rooms, and other creative spaces. I’ve been to some amazing libraries, but Oodi definitely dethroned the Royal Danish Library as my favorite. I also noticed a sound beacon at the entrance—a thoughtful feature for visually impaired visitors. The energetic music felt like an uplifting touch for everyone.